Tuesday, February 2, 2016

Leçon français : les chiffres

A short (ha!) French lesson – les chiffres [numbers].

This morning I went to the boulangerie and it was the second time I’d seen that they’ve added a new cute little cookie – bite size. I decided I’d try them; there were 9 in the basket and not wanting to only buy one or take them all, I asked for five (cinq = pronounced ‘sank’ as in ‘the boat sank’) and got 15. I guess my pronunciation wasn’t spot on! Tell me, how could I screw up ‘sank’???????

Donc, let’s talk les chiffres, d’accord [okay]? Since French is a Latin based language often words are familiar to things I already know, whether from Spanish or English.

One through fifteen, sort of, is quite like Spanish (English sure looks like the odd man out here):

French
Spanish
English
French
Spanish
English
Un
Uno
One
Onze
Once
Eleven
Deux
Dos
Two
Douze
Doce
Twelve
Trois
Tres
Three
Treize
Trece
Thirteen
Quatre
Quarto
Four
Quatorze
Catorce
Fourteen
Cinq
Cinco
Five
Quinze
Quince
Fifteen
Six
Seis
Six
Seize
 
Sixteen
Sept
Siete
Seven
 
 
 
Huit
Ocho
Eight
 
 
 
Neuf
Nueve
Nine
 
 
 
Dix
Diez
Ten
 
 
 

The above gives the false sense of security that les chiffres will be a breeze … well, let me tell you NOTHING in the French language is easy.

When we get to 17, 18 and 19 we begin having to apply math to create les chiffres as you use the two numbers from 1 – 10 to create them (the addition of the two numbers is implied): dix-six (16), dix-sept (17), dix-huit (18), dix-neuf (19). Spanish too follows this same format, but they don’t have the [-] between the two numbers and instead just write it as one word with the “10” part spelled differently, ie: dieciseis (16), diecisiete (17), etc.

Donc, the numbers in the ranges of vingt (20), trente (30), quarante (40), cinquante (50) and soixante (60) all follow the normal format, such as ‘vingt-cinq’ (25) with the exception of the numbers 21, 31, 41, 51, and 61 (yes I skipped 71, 81 and 91 – you’ll see why later) are written with the word ‘and’ in them … such as vingt-et-un (21), trente-et-un (31), quarante-et-un (41), cinquante-et-un (51), soixante-et-un (61) ….

So far, so good? It kind of makes sense (other than the “et-un” part) the more you work with it ….. now comes the absolute bizarre – even the French think the numbering format for the 70’s, 80’s, and 90’s are “très bizarre”.

The rest of les chiffres up to 100 include addition or multiplication of various numbers within the number – it’s really weird!

There is no “70” … instead it is “soxiante-dix” [60+10] … then to continue through the 70’s, instead of using the prior format, you instead use the numbers 11 – 19. Donc, 71 = soxiante-onze [60+11], 72 = soxiante-douze [60+12], 73 = soxiante-treize [60+13] …. 77 = soxiante-dix-sept [60+10+7], 78 = soxiante-dix-huit [60+10+8]

In the 80’s range is when you get to multiply ... and add …. Woohoo! Donc, 80 = quatre-vingts [literally four twenties .. 4x20], 81 = quatre-vingt-un [4x20+1 … notice no “et-un”], 82 = quatre-vingt-duex, up to 89 = quatre-vingt-neuf [4x20+9]…

The 90’s are the same format as the 70’s where there is no “90” … instead it uses the base of “quatre-vingt” with the numbers from 11 – 19. Donc, 90 = quatre-vingt-dix [4x20+10], 91 = quatre-vingt-onze [4x20+11] up to 99 = quatre-vingt-dix-neuf [4x20+10+9]…

I now understand why on checks there are two lines to write out the amount of the check because can you imagine trying to squeeze $97.85 onto an American check:

 quatre-vingt-dix-sept euro quatre-vingt-cinq cintimes

Weird. Bizzare. Archaic. The number system seems utterly strange and laborious – even the French make fun of it – yet at the same time this is what makes me love the French culture … because they keep their heritage alive.

In France, there is what is known as the “Académie française” [I bet by now you’ve seen enough French to figure out what that means] that is comprised of 40 members which, once selected, are members for life. [As a side note, one of the members – the author Frédéric Vitoux – is the uncle of one of my San Diego French teachers.]  They are “the pre-eminent French council for matters pertaining to the French language” and “the body has the task of acting as an official authority on the language; it is charged with publishing an official dictionary of the language”. The first complete dictionary was published in 1694, and the latest (8th edition) in 1935.

Here is a Wikipedia web link about the “Académie française” if you wish to learn more (pretty interesting): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acad%C3%A9mie_fran%C3%A7aise

Donc, the French protect their language with a passion, hence the lesson today in les chiffres!

PS: At French class today (I’m back in school) I had to say “1987” in French and I did it (without having to look at a number cheat-sheet)!!! WooHoo!! So I’ll close with that ….

mille neuf cent quatre-vingt-sept

Sunday, January 17, 2016

la météo

D'accord [okay], let me just put this out there – I think I’ve gone ape-shit bonkers …. I believe there are bats in the belfry!!!!

Let me explain ….. mais [but] first some background ….. I was born and grew up in Southern California – specifically Palm Springs and San Diego. Because of this, according to my internal body thermostat, I have always been cold when the temperature begins to drop the slightest bit or there is a breeze … I can think of a picture of me at the beach with another person who was in his bathing suit and I was wearing pants and a sweatshirt jacket …. I used to snow ski every winter in Salt Lake City and thought it was freezing there …. So what in the heck has happened to me?

When I arrived in Paris in September the temperatures were in the mid-60’s (if I remember correctly), I’d wear a light sweater when I was out and about and sometimes that was even too much …. Most of October was the same but maybe changing sometimes to my sweatshirt jacket (yeah, I know – not very ‘Paris like’ in this haute couture capitol) … November and December were pretty much highs of mid-50’s and lows in the high to mid-40’s … I’d wear a scarf and a winter jacket – but if the sun was shining it was really hot …. I kept asking (whom you wonder? Nobody in particular – just rhetorically) “when is it going to get cold” and I kept hoping that “maybe in January it will start to get cold so I can see what it’s like to live somewhere cold” ….. (which of course makes no sense at all, since I was usually cold in San Diego!)

During my 4 ½ months here, I always have my apartment windows open – whether it’s raining or not, no matter what the temperature is … I’ve only turned on my heater (old fashion radiator) a few times – once back in the fall when I was really sick and had a fever, and a couple of times to take the chill off the air if I’ve had the windows open all day – heck, the buildings don’t even turn on the heat for the radiators until October – that’s it! … I really haven’t needed to heat my apartment.

Donc [so] now it’s January and the temperatures are definitely dropping – the highs are in the high 30’s and the lows in the low 30’s or high 20’s …. And my windows are still open!!!!!!!! As an example, today the range per AccuWeather is the high of 4 C and the low will be -3 C (that is high 38 F and low 27 F) as I write this it is 1 C (34 F, ... remember, 32 F is the freezing point) ….. And I’m perfectly comfortable …..

What the heck is wrong with me? I’d like to blame it on menopause but that boat sailed a long, long time ago …. So I’m ‘post’ on that front …… it can’t be because I’m getting older, because in my years of observation as you get older you wear more sweaters and jackets when it’s 90 degrees (F) outside …. Can’t be because I could stand to lose a few pounds – I had more to lose when I was in the States …. The only thing I can think of is what I started this blog with …. I think I’ve gone ape-shit bonkers and now have bats in the belfry!

le temps ici est délicieux, faire de la neige, faire de la neige, faire de la neige

Monday, January 4, 2016

Mon Noël et les observations du Nouvel An

Christmas:

On my prior blog posting I wrote about some of the Christmas “traditions” throughout France. At the time I posted that blog I had not yet experienced Christmas myself, so now I’m writing about my observations of Christmas and New Year’s Eve.
I imagine you noticed when reading about the French “traditions” that there were many references to Christmas Eve. I realize that a lot of people in America celebrate on Christmas Eve (kids not being able to wait to open their presents, their own family traditions or having two sets of families to celebrate with – one on Christmas Eve and the other on Christmas Day) so even having read about the French “traditions” I thought that here in France would be similar – boy was I wrong! All celebrations are on Christmas Eve in France – Christmas Day means nothing to the French people. Which I find really weird, since Christmas is about Christ’s birth and He wasn’t born on ‘Eve’ but on ‘Day’ … yes, I know – Christmas is just symbolism, but hopefully you get the gist of what I’m trying to convey here.

So, I decided to go to a Christmas Eve service. A couple of days before I had met and talked to one of my neighbors (woohoo, I met a neighbor, Natalie – she lives on the first floor (étage 1 – remember, in the US that would be the second floor) with her daughter Victoria, and she told me that the couple who had lived in my apartment before me, Mr. and Mrs. Smith (not Brad and Angelina she stressed) worked at The American Church in Paris and that the services there are in English. I decided I’d check out the ACP as it is only about a 20 – 25 minute walk from my apartment. It’s on the quai d’Orsay, about 2 or 3 blocks from la tour Eiffel in the 7ème arrondissement. They were holding three services at 1:30pm (13h30), 7:30pm (19h30), and 10:00pm (22h00) with a 30 minute prelude of classical music, including Mozart, Bach, and Vivaldi (one of my favorites) prior to each service. I went to the 22h00 service.
I left my apartment just before 21h00 (9:00pm) so that I could watch the lights flash on la tour Eiffel  as I walked across the Champs de Mars (they flash on the hour, for 5 minutes). It doesn’t matter how many times I walk by la tour Eiffel I am always awestruck when I see it. But this stroll was so very different than anything I’ve ever experienced. During the first 10 minutes or so of my walk I did not see another person or car drive by. It was absolutely eerie. Since I don’t watch these kind of movies, I can’t give you a movie name as a reference – but you know those movies that usually star actors like Will Smith or Tom Cruise where some disaster has happened on earth and the main character finds that they are the only human left alive? That is what it felt like to me. (I had actually seen more people out and about on the day after the terrorist attacks here in Paris than I saw on Christmas Eve night). For a city that has millions of people living in it – to be able to walk through the streets and parks and not see a single person or moving vehicle I felt like I was the only person alive. That was when I realized that Christmas Eve is the day of celebration for families – the live ‘tradition’ of the French people, done the same way for centuries and centuries. When I left the church service at about 23h15 (11:15pm) there were a few more people out but still not many, it seemed like they were on their way home from their earlier family gatherings.

The American Church in Paris is the first American church established outside the United States in 1814. The current building was dedicated in 1931, and it is a small church, in 15th century Gothic style. It seats only 700 people. It is an interdenominational church serving English speaking people from different countries and denominational backgrounds. The Gothic architecture is very simplistic – it is not an ornate church by any means, but has absolutely beautiful “clean lines”. It also has a large pipe organ, which was played during the service. Below is a photograph of the pipe organ.

 
On Christmas Day I left my apartment at about 07h00 (7:00am) because I was on kitty feeding duty while her parents were out of town. As I was walking on La Motte-Picquet the first thing I saw was a city worker sweeping the gutters. This worker would be responsible for emptying the city trash cans along the sidewalks. I was somewhat dumb-founded, thinking “what in the heck is he doing emptying trash cans on Christmas Day – can’t they just leave them until tomorrow?” As I continued along my way I saw another city worker, then a city truck driving around and I also saw a gardienne (think of a New York City building superintendent) mopping the entry way to her apartment building. On my walk back home at about 08h00 (8:00am) I saw a boulangerie open, Starbucks was open, the newspaper kiosk was open (no newspapers delivered to your door here – you have to go to the newspaper stand to buy it each day), and a delivery being made to the Franprix (mini-market grocery store). Seeing all of this reinforced to me that it is Christmas Eve, not Christmas Day, that is celebrated in France.
I had a great Christmas Day because I really wasn’t alone – physically yes, but I ended up video talking to 7 different sets of people via Skype, Face Time or Facebook Messenger so it didn’t seem like I was so far away from everybody. A little bit of loneliness did creep in when it came to my “Christmas Dinner” so I made up for that by eating comfort food – I had macaroni and cheese, ham, and chocolate cake with buttercream frosting for dessert … an all American meal!

New Year’s Eve:
I’m not really a ‘party person’, those days are long in the past. I cannot remember the last time I was awake for the midnight hour to celebrate the passing of one year into the next. But, here I am in a different country wanting to learn about their customs – so I decided I wanted to experience New Year’s Eve in Paris.

The first thing I learned is that traditionally a big public celebration is not custom. I had envisioned plentiful fireworks at la tour Eiffel but learned that it’s only been the last few years that Paris has had a large public celebration (last year 650,000 people attended) which takes place at the Arc de Triomphe on the Champs Élysées.  Secondly, because of the November terrorist attacks the government wasn’t sure if they were going to allow any type of public celebration and only decided a couple of weeks before that they would allow the public celebration but there would be no fireworks – they didn’t want the noise to be misconstrued as guns being fired. And thirdly, the few weeks leading up to December 31st there were plenty of newspaper articles from Intelligence Sources about ‘chatter heard’ that a DAESH attack on New Year’s Eve at ‘iconic’ locations was a possibility in a number of countries, including France. All these put a damper on my enthusiasm of experiencing New Year’s Eve in Paris.
I’ve said in blog postings before that I’m not going to allow DAESH to impact how I live my life – I will not let them win, but for some reason in this instance I did. I’m ashamed of myself and can rationalize it away saying that I made plans to spend New Year’s Eve with friends instead – but the bottom line is that with the Intelligence reports about a possible attack I just didn’t feel comfortable being in the crowd on the Champs Élysées. Part of my reasoning for not going to the public celebration was that I knew there would be no vehicle traffic as they were shutting down the Champs Élysées and what frightened me the most was the “unknown” …. With all those people walking about there could easily (or so I thought) be suicide bombers walking amongst them. I was more comfortable with the thought that the chances of being hit by gun fire from a moving vehicle was pretty low, but not comfortable at all of wondering if the person next to me, or in front of me, or behind me was wearing a suicide vest under their winter jacket. So basically, I chickened out. And I now regret it as I’ve since learned that there were 11,000 police and military personnel along the Champs Élysées that night and every bag and purse was searched, which would also include opening your jacket for a visual check, before being allowed into the area. It was reported it was a smaller crowd this year, only 600,000 people.

So, I went to my friends’ apartment to await 2016. They live about an 8 minute walk from my apartment. They provided the food and champagne and I brought the wine and dessert. I got there around 20h30 (8:30pm) and shortly thereafter we started our grazing through the night. The French serve meals in multiple courses. We had talked about just having cheese but it morphed into much more.
We started off with saucisson (think of hard salami), very thinly sliced dried beef (I can’t remember what it’s called), white onions (like used in alcohol drinks), gherkins, green olives, and cheese crackers – this was served with the white wine. Next was ½ lobster each. They ate theirs with the French version of mayonnaise (which is supposed to be really, really good – but I have a huge aversion to mayonnaise) and I had melted butter. Then the cheese course was served; we had three types that had been bought at one of the Christmas Markets and was a regional cheese (none of us can remember which region). One was a truffle cheese (OMG, it was delicious and should be at 149 Euros per kilo), a red (in color) cheese that had tomato and basil in it, a blue (in color, not the type) cheese that had spices in it that none of us could remember, and an endive salad with hard boiled eggs - served with the red wine. We finished our gastronomical feast with various types of petit four tarts that I had picked up at my local boulangerie, fresh cherries and oranges – served of course with the champagne. Below is a picture of the desserts.

 
I left to walk home after the midnight hour. I did learn that in France there are no laws for public intoxication so I didn’t have to worry if I wobbled while I walked since we did drink the two bottles of wine and the bottle of champagne. I know I sound like a lush – I promise I’m not … what is so totally weird to me is that for years before moving here I had pretty much stopped drinking any alcohol, no reason why I just didn’t want to any longer – maybe at most 2 or 3 times a year. Here, I don’t drink every day (the perception is that French people drink wine with every meal – and they DO) but when I do have wine it doesn’t feel the same, I don’t feel fuzzy. French wine is very, very, very good!!!

Extra Bonus:
I am in love. He is just an adorable boy.



I don’t even know his name. He lives at the café on the corner of my block (I always see him in the café, I don’t know if the owners live in the apartment above it or not). The café opens at 11h00 (11:00am) and if I happen to walk by between 10h00 and 10h30 (10:00am and 10:30am) I can sometimes find him outside on the sidewalk. The other day I cracked up because somebody was walking their large dog and my little love had his back arched and the hair standing straight up – I started laughing and called him over to me where I pet and pet him until he settled down. He is so friendly and recognizes me. When I see him inside the café, either before it opens or after it’s closed, I tap on the window and he comes to the window where I “pet” him through the window – like scratch his head. He moves his body against the window as if he can actually feel my fingers in his fur.
In this picture, it was taken just the other morning – early, he was sitting in the window seat and when he saw me he started standing up and stretching against the window. In the window reflection you can see me taking the picture and the bottles in the bar of the café across the street.

I am in love. He is just an adorable boy. I don’t even know his name.

Jusqu'à la prochaine fois

Wednesday, December 23, 2015

noël en France


Christmas ât chez Nicolle

 
Christmas in France. I am sitting in my apartment listening to Christmas music (in English) as I love the music from this holiday (commercial) and birth celebration (religious).

Things aren’t so different here for celebrating Christmas than they are in the States. In stores Christmas decorations started showing up in mid-November (since Thanksgiving isn’t celebrated here I can’t use that as a reference) and the various Christmas markets were set up at the beginning of December.

In Paris there are two fairly large Christmas markets, one at La Défense where about 300 market stalls are set up in the open area, and the second along both sides of the Champs Elysées between the Grand Palais and the Place de la Concorde with about 160 market stalls. Throughout France, as well as most of Europe, Christmas markets are set up and visited. In 2013 I went to a number of them along the Rhine River between Amsterdam (the Netherlands) and Strasbourg (France). This year I went to both La Défense and the Champs Elysées – each twice.

I found where the Christmas market stalls along the Rhine River had more commercial items such as tree ornaments (lots of them) here in Paris there were more handmade items such as leather goods (purses, tote bags, portfolios), soap and lavender from Provence, cheese, chocolate truffles (OMG!!!!!!!), jewelry and a lot of scarves – in silk, cashmere and fur. There were other non-handmade items such as drones and hover boards. And food … food … and more food. I have found I am quite partial to “gaufre avec chocolat noir et de la crème Chantilly” (waffles with dark chocolate and whipped cream).

Some general French Christmas traditions, as reported in The Local:

“Presents” – Obviously the French don't actually move Christmas Day around, but they are more flexible when it comes to giving presents. In the north of the country, gifts are offered to children on December 6th, the feast of St Nicolas. Many families prefer to exchange presents on Christmas Eve and others, who must have impressive willpower, do the giving and receiving on January 6th, the Feast of the Kings.

“Writing Santa Claus” – Letters from French kids to Father Christmas don't just disappear into dustbins or drawers in France. Since 1962, France has had a law that stipulates any letter to Santa must be responded to in the form of a postcard. The law has no doubt helped boost the myth of Santa Claus among France's children, although it's doubtful the postmen appreciate all the extra work.

“Shoes” – Whereas youngsters in Anglo countries hang Christmas stockings by the fireplace for Santa, in France, children leave out their shoes, hoping Père Nöel will fill them to the brim with little presents, sweets, fruit, nuts and anything else that will fit. Children with smaller feet must feel a bit short-changed.

“Meal” – Otherwise known as Le Reveillon, the big Christmas meal in French families will often take place late on Christmas Eve or even in the early hours of Christmas morning after midnight mass. The menu for the feast will vary depending on the region but turkey stuffed with chestnuts is a regular on tables, as well as goose, oysters and foie gras.

“Cake of Kings” – The French mark the 12th day Christmas or the feast of Epiphany, by scoffing down one final pastry - known as the galette des rois or "cake of kings". Inside the cake is hidden a charm known as a fève. Whoever finds it in their portion is a king or queen and wins the right to wear the crown and choose their partner. This ritual may sound daft, but it's still taken very seriously.

A few French regional traditions at Christmas, as reported in The Local:

“Night of the Chimera” – Christmas is celebrated in the form of a fantastical spectacle in the city of Le Mans in Brittany. In the summertime and again during the holiday period, images of angels, demons, dragons, and other strange creatures are projected onto historic monuments in the medieval neighborhood called Plantagenet City.

“Floating carols singers” – In the Little Venice of Colmar in northeastern France, children decked out in red Santa hats sing Christmas carols on boats along the canal. They make four stops throughout the city center, performing four or five songs each time to the audience gathered on the quays.

“Christmas Fire” – In Corsica, the yule log takes the form of a bonfire lit in front of the village church after the midnight mass on December 24th.Traditionally, it’s up to the children of the village to gather the logs and branches, all of which must come from the fields and the yards of the village. Once the fire has died out the next day, the villagers each take some of the still-warm cinders to put in their own fireplaces.

“13 Desserts” – One dessert is not nearly enough if you’re celebrating Christmas in Provence. It’s tradition to have thirteen dessert options after the Christmas meal, to be shared by everyone, symbolizing the sharing of Christ. These desserts traditionally include pastries, candied fruit, dried fruit, and nougat.

“Les Santons” – Nativity scenes are popular throughout France, but the people of Provence put their own unique spin on them with small, clay figurines called santons, or "little saints". These figures, traditionally handmade at home as a family, can be vegetable sellers, bakers, men selling chestnuts, local dignitaries, or other personalities from daily village life. These nativity scenes are supposed to be representative of the ideal Provencal village. Marseille holds an annual Santon Fair at the end of November to kick off the holiday season. (My note: every Christmas market has a huge stall with these village figurines.)

“Designer Christmas Trees” – In Paris, an annual exhibition of reimagined Christmas trees created by big names in fashion, design, and architecture, takes place this year at the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées. The avant-garde trees have been designed in the past by artists such as Alexander McQueen, Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dior, Louis Vuitton, and more. After the show, the trees are auctioned off and all proceeds go to charity.

“Corrida de Noel” – The Parisian suburb of Issy-les-Moulineaux brings a sportive atmosphere to the holidays with their annual Santa Claus race. Called the "Corrida de Noel" after its Brazilian counterpart, the race is accompanied by orchestras and shows. In 2014, more than 18,000 runners signed up for the race, which is organized by age levels and open to everyone. Unfortunately, this year's event has been cancelled due to security reasons following the terrorist attacks in Paris.

“Coquilles de Noel” – Since the 16th century, people of the Nord Pas-de-Calais region have been testing their arteries with a type of brioche, or sweet bun, filled with butter, sugar, and raisins. Bakers in the north churn out these pastries, made in the shape of coquilles or shells, every December. According to France 3, a document from 1579 states that the sweets were thrown to the people from the top of the belfry tower.

So, that’s what Christmas is like in France. For me? Thanks to a recent shipment from the United States of Kraft Macaroni and Cheese, I’ll be having a feast on Christmas Day of Mac and Cheese with diced ham, wine (I AM in France) – a nice 2012 Château Prieuré-Les-Tours Graves, and chocolate cake with cream cheese frosting.

And I end this blog with the most important message about this holiday:

Merry Christmas! “For unto you is born this day in the city of David a Saviour, which is Christ the Lord” Luke 2:11.

Happy New Year! I ask your prayers via this message: “Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good will toward men” Luke 2:14.

joyeux noël et bonne année


Friday, November 27, 2015

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13 novembre 2015 - Attaques Paris [Part 2]

The attacks started at 9:20pm at the Stade de France (stadium), which is in the suburb of Saint-Denis north of Paris proper. Three terrorists attempted to get into the stadium where a football (soccer) match was playing between Germany and France. They were unsuccessful and two blew themselves up at the entrance gates while the third blew himself up in front of a nearby café, killing an innocent bystander.

Almost simultaneously a second team of terrorists began their rampage in the streets of the 10th and 11th arrondissements, literally spraying gunfire at packed cafés and bars – those places where many innocents were killed are: Le Carillon, Le Petit Cambodge, Le Bonne Biere, Le Casa Nostra, and Le Belle Equipe. All of those places, as well as the areas in general, have a thriving evening business sustained by young adults just living life as young adult do. From there, one of the terrorists walked down Boulevard Voltaire and entered the Le Comptoir Voltaire and blew himself up (I’m not clear if he entered the café or blew himself up just outside it – his actions claimed one more innocents life).

And a third team of terrorists entered the Bataclan music venue where they immediately began killing people, then took hundreds hostage and continued their killing until the French version of SWAT got control of the building. Unfortunately, this wasn’t a quick operation and watching it unfold was very painful to me. The police had an almost unbelievable situation to confront against terrorists who willingly used massive gun power against them.

Below I’ve marked a map (yellow stars) showing the various locations where the attacks occurred within the city of Paris. I’ve also included a marker for the Châtelet metro station showing where my houseguest and I were earlier that evening. The distance between the Le Carillon Restaurant and the Le Comptoir Voltaire Café is 1.8 miles. The distance between the Châtelet metro station and the Bataclan music venue is 1.1 miles. Everything is within easy walking distance.



In the end, the three terrorists were dead at the music venue, as well as many concertgoers. The number I keep reading is 89 dead at the Bataclan, but that number hasn’t changed since it occurred and I have to believe (I hope I’m wrong) that some of the wounded didn’t make it. A couple of days after the attack I saw a photograph taken inside the Bataclan once the terrorists had been killed and the hostages freed. The picture was of the mosh pit in front of the stage – there were at least 20 (maybe even 40) bodies lying there. It was a very difficult picture to look at (which is the reason I can’t say how many bodies, as it was very disturbing to look at) knowing that not only are the families traumatized by their loved ones being killed (and I pray to God they never see that picture) but all of the first responders and law enforcement personnel have got to be affected by what they witnessed that night.

For me, slipping back into my ‘cop mode,’ the difficult part of this entire attack on Paris is thinking about the police officers. I know what I saw throughout my career and would not wish it on anyone – there are just some things that an officer will never forget seeing. And with this attack – thinking about the minimum of eight separate crime scenes, the personnel needed to process each crime scene, the multiple deaths at each crime scene (the café Le Belle Equipe alone had 19 people killed) as well as the numerous injured at each crime scene, taking witness statements … and it goes on and on.

I imagine that all law enforcement that night was pulled to those areas to assist – that would be like having NCPD, LMPD, Coronado PD, etc. coming to assist CVPD with crime scenes (because the law enforcement in each arrondissement, even though they are all the same type of law enforcement, works for that arrondissement only).

The next day, on Saturday, it was reported that all law enforcement personnel had all time off cancelled. I still can’t get my head around how the cops processed everything as well as trying to deal with the utter destruction of people they saw. The last count I’m aware of is 130 dead, 350 injured with 99 of those in critical condition.

Then taking a step back from the actually murders and attempt murders by the terrorists, the President of France, that Friday night, declared a State of Emergency. That allowed him to bring 1,500 soldiers into the streets of Paris (in addition to the hundreds already here stationed at the various tourist sites, monuments, Jewish schools, etc).  He also advised the residents of Paris to stay indoors with their doors locked as they were not sure if all the terrorists were accounted for (and in the end, they were not).

A State of Emergency is automatically for 12 days and among other things allows law enforcement broader powers to conduct interviews, searches, and arrests/holding of persons of interest. By the time the first weekend was over there had been 414 searches conducted in France with numerous persons detained and/or arrested and weapons seized – including a ROCKET LAUNCHER found in southern France. I believe the number of raids is now in the 800+ range and that’s just here in France … currently Belgium is conducting numerous raids in their country related to the Paris attack.

The President of France has since gone to the house/senate (I’m not sure what they are called here) to ask for the State of Emergency to be extended for 3 months, which received overwhelming support. I, too, support the extension as well as do everyone I’ve spoken to about it. With the raids done to date and the intelligence, weapons, etc. that they’ve gotten so far it just shows how integrated the terrorists have made themselves in France and I am all for any enforcement measures that will help root them out and stop further attacks in Paris or elsewhere. [I imagine that statement maybe unpopular with some of my blog readers – I will not apologize for my opinion. Please know that this blog is not a forum for argument on difference of opinions].

The raids lead into the incident in Saint-Denis – again, it is a suburb located north of Paris proper. It was a good lesson in things that can go wrong when, as law enforcement, you’re expecting one thing and something very different happens. As I understand it, a team of police went to conduct a raid on an apartment they had information occupants were associated with the mastermind of the Paris attacks. From that contact they went to a different apartment down the street. At that second apartment, they were originally not successful with breaking down the door as it had been reinforced, which surprised them as well as the barrage of gunfire they met when they tried to force the door open. Of course, we know this turned into a 4 hour standoff/gun battle (the police alone fired over 5,000 rounds during the gun battle) – but the end result is what I am very satisfied with: “they got the fucker” – the mastermind was killed.

I should take a moment here to explain that normally I’m apolitical – I pretty much hate politics and tune out when they are being discussed. I’m actually surprised with myself regarding my intense feelings about the Paris attacks but I’m being brutally honest here with my blog. I live here, I’m not 5,600 miles away – I live 3.6 miles away from “ground zero”.

So, what is life like now in Paris? On Saturday, the 14th (the day after the attacks) the streets were virtually empty in my arrondissement and absolutely empty in the areas near the attacks. Many of the cafes and shops were open in my area but there were not people out and about. My visitor and I walked to the Eiffel Tower, it had been “closed indefinitely” the night before. I wanted to see it without all the tourists there – normally 20,000 people a day visit the Tower and when we were there, in the afternoon, there were only a couple of hundred people – at most – at the Tower and the adjoining Champ de Mars (park). I thought “she” looked sad – if a building of metal can actually “look sad”.  It was eerie walking through the Champ de Mars because normally on a weekend it is teeming with families and all kinds of children are running around playing and having fun. There were no families on Saturday.

On Sunday the 15th, a friend I have here in Paris and I went to most of the areas attacked to pay respect to those who were killed. It was quite humbling to be there. There were thousands of people at the Place de la République – I estimate one to two thousand people there alone, and at each of the cafés/bars there were hundreds of more people doing the same thing – paying respect, saying prayers, leaving candles and flowers. The devastation that took place a scant two days before was incredible. The buildings walls and windows had bullet holes in them.

It made it real, knowing that people’s lives were shattered – instantly – for no understandable reason. These were truly innocent people, they had no associations with the terrorists and there was no personal conflict between the terrorist and them (not that any killing is justified – it’s just that in most cases there is an underlying reason, i.e. gang shootings, domestic violence, workplace violence) and yet the terrorists chose that time and space to wreak havoc.

As my friend and I walked to the Bataclan music venue we saw people running in a panic towards us. My friend was frightened and asked me if we should be running, too. I told her no – that it was probably just ‘herd mentality’ and until we knew that something had happened we should just stay put, as we were in a safe and secluded area. One of the runners stop next to us and we asked him what had happened. He answered that he didn’t know, just people started running so he ran too (hence, the ‘herd mentality’). We watched the police arrive. They first stopped people from walking down the street toward the Bataclan but within about 5 minutes did allow people to continue walking down the street. I told my friend that it was probably just a car backfiring but people are so sensitive and afraid right now that they are panicking at anything (including her). We never really found out what it was, I heard two different stories: firecrackers or a light bulb popped at a café.

As each day takes us further from the attacks things are returning to normal for the residents of Paris. During the three days of National mourning all monuments, tourist attractions, museums, street markets and schools were closed. All have since reopened.

The times I’ve taken the metro it seems that they are not quite as packed as usual – but that could be just me projecting that I think there’s a fear to use the metro. Somedays the cafés in my neighborhood are overflowing with people but then today when I walked by them they seemed empty. I think the Parisians are having a hard time dealing with the attack and are still a bit skittish about how life goes on.

I do know that they are determined to not let DAESH control their lives – they will not let them ‘win’ and the joy of life (joie de vie) that this City of Lights offers will not be dimmed, it’s just taking a day at a time to get back to not constantly thinking about what happened and when will it happen again (because I’m convinced it will – both here in France and in the United States).

There has only been one night that I had trouble dealing with all of this and that was just a night or two ago. I don’t know why it reared its ugly head but it did. For the most part I’ve been pretty calm about it and I know it’s because of my faith in God. I know that He looks over me and keeps me safe. He also knows when my time is up and I leave this earth. My life is His plan and I’m not afraid of death – so when I’m supposed to go, I’ll go – it’s not up to me, it’s up to Him. Knowing that and believing that has kept me grounded throughout this ordeal plus with my police background I’m not worried, I intend to continue living my life and “to hell with DAESH.”

I will admit, the hardest time I’ve had throughout these 10 days is when I Skyped with my dad and he cried and, in his own way, asked me to come home. He isn’t the only one who has asked me to come home or asked me if I’ve changed my mind about living here – and my answer is that I AM home, Paris is my home – this is where I live.

 
Liberté, égalité, fraternité

Wednesday, November 25, 2015

13 novembre 2015 - Attaques Paris [Part 1]

Paris is attacked. Friday, 13 November 2015. Scores of innocent people are either injured or killed. Why? It’s the age old reason of almost every war fought on earth – religion.

Today, the 10th day after the attack and while I’m on my second, fairly large, glass of wine, I’m finally ready to write about my experience. I doubt this blog post will have my wry sense of humor (well, at least I think it’s humor) interspersed because there was nothing even remotely humorous about that night.

But to talk about it, I have to digress to set the stage as to the reason for my feelings and observations. Certainly I was heavily influenced due to my choice of career – one can’t be in law enforcement with her feet on the ground, without the everyday life of being a cop affecting my overall look on things, particularly life.

And then, on top of that, I spent over 20 years teaching “Community Policing and Problem Solving” at the Police Academy speaking directly about the way certain milestones in our country changed the direction of the nation as a whole. This, too, as you will see, added to my perspective of the Paris attacks on 13 November 2015.

Paradigms and paradigm shifts that affect an entire country don’t often occur. Most people won’t experience one in their life, a number of people will experience only one, and few people will experience more. Paradigms were part of the lessons I taught at the Police Academy. There, usually sat young adults – kids – who had little idea what their chosen career actually was, as the examples set by movies and television are about as far from the truth as one can get.

When I first started teaching in the academy the students were close to my age but after 20 years, well many of them could be my grandchildren and had only heard about the significant paradigm shifts our country went through in the 20th and 21st centuries: the stock market crash in 1929, the assassination of John F. Kennedy, and 9-11. Each of these incidents changed the way the United States behaved, an example is that before 9-11 the word “terrorist” was not in our law enforcement vernacular – now it’s past its “buzz word” stage and has become ingrained in how law enforcement does business.

I have lived through two of these paradigm shifts – JKF and 9-11. And I feel as though I’ve now lived through a third one – the attacks on Paris, just in a different country.

When 9-11 occurred, I was at a law enforcement conference in Long Beach and watched it unfold while in the hotel gym before that day’s conference began (which it never happened – it basically shut down).  I was 3,000 miles away but felt acutely connected to what was happening, mostly because I felt absolutely inept. Here I was trained, and had the personality, to go towards high risk incidents yet I was unable to help in New York. I felt as though I was failing in my duties. (At the time I was working with the FBI at the Regional Computer Forensic Laboratory and we did send a few people out to New York but I wasn’t one those who got to respond).

Then, 10 days ago Paris was attacked. Once again I felt an overwhelming need – yes need – to help but there was absolutely nothing I could do. Again, I felt inept. I don’t really know how to express how hard it is to have spent my career helping people (whether they wanted it or not) and then being in a position of not being able to help when everything is literally “going to hell.”

Friday the 13th – since I’m still fairly new to the customs here, when the day started I wasn’t sure if that date had any creepy significance in France or not. The day started pretty normal and I was blessed to have an out-of-town friend staying with me.

We met British relatives of hers for lunch. It was a first meeting for most of our group. We ate at Chez Rene in the 5th arrondissement, which is on the left bank. After lunch we walked across the Seine and across the Ile-Saint-Louis to the right bank. We meandered around just enjoying the afternoon until we decided that the rue de Rivoli was far too crowded and took a side street – rue de Halles, where we found a café, not too far from the Châtelet metro station, to drink some wine. This is in the 1st arrondissement.

We left about 7:00pm because it had started to rain a bit and we had a baby with us. We all decided to take the Châtelet metro to our homes (opposite sides of Paris) and I’m thankful that God was watching over us because my visitor and I would have normally just gone on a walk-about to find what we could see in this wonderful City. Had we done so, there is a good possibility that we would have been in, near or close to “ground zero” when the attacks occurred.

The attacks occurred in the 10th and 11th arrondissement. I won’t explain the purpose of arrondissements this time but the City of Paris is broken into 20 arrondissements (think neighborhoods). They do not run linear but instead spiral like that of a snail (escargot) shell. The 10th and 11th arrondissements are next to each other and the 1st arrondissement is very close. Everything is really in walking distance in Paris. All are on the right bank – meaning north of the Seine (see map below).
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
So my houseguest and I started back to the 15th arrondissement (left bank) but didn’t go directly home, instead we stopped at a café for a small dinner and probably made it home around 9:00pm. It wasn’t long after that we were both in bed.
 
At about 10:30pm (Paris time) my houseguest got a text from the United States asking about the bombings. That was the first we knew the city was under attack. I turned on the TV to the two English channels (BBC World News and SkyNews) and brought up on my computer an English French newspaper (The Local) to follow the story.
 
What was most interesting about this is that my houseguest was texting with her husband who was watching in the United States and he was getting information before we were seeing it in France. I remember distinctly he telling us that there was a firefight going on between the terrorists and police from the roof of the Bataclan music venue. He had this information maybe 2 or 3 minutes before we saw it on the TV in France.
 
Now, I don’t know if it’s because I am limited to English speaking news channels and if I understood the French language better and followed on a French language news station if the information would have been more up-to-date or not. We stayed glued to the television until 4:00am on Saturday morning when exhaustion, and the lessening of text and email messages to us from everyone in the United States (which I thank you so very much for your concern – I tried to keep everyone apprised of the situation via Facebook updates throughout the night) finally drove us to get some sleep.
 
It was almost surreal during the hours watching the newscasts. First off, the wail of sirens never stopped – all night/morning long I could hear them out my window. Not the ones in the 10th and 11th arrondissements where the attacks occurred but within my arrondissement – my guess was they were going to the attack area for support. Seeing, on the television as the crime scene expanded – over and over again, the number of people killed increasing hour by hour, the scores of people injured and then, of course, the hostages at the Bataclan. Recognizing the coordination of the attacks whether via suicide bomber or gun fire.
 
(Part 2 to be posted in a couple of days)