Tuesday, January 31, 2017

Ma première année ou plus


On September 1st I celebrated living in Paris for 1 year. My plan was to move here for two years – to travel in Europe and Eastern Europe – then decide if I wanted to live in Europe forever, and where. I picked Paris as my starting point because it is a good central hub that allows me to easily travel anywhere else in Europe and Eastern Europe. I knew my first 9 – 12 months would be spent assimilating to the European, and specifically French, culture (easily accomplished) and learning the French language (ha! Not even remotely accomplished). So, having been here a year I wanted to look back to see what my year looked like – but since I was remiss in completing my blog I’m now at 1 ½ years, so I’ll update you to the end of 2016:

Visitors: I was lucky enough throughout the year to be able to meet up with friends, old and new, from the States – Fred and Diana; Rosemary; MJ, Allen, Gail and Robert; Ilyana; David and Tessa; Arnie and Suzie; David and Beth; Jeanne and Jerry; Tony, Dominique and Andrew; Karen and Nancy; and Leonard, Terri and Art – all made Paris either a stop on their journey or the journey itself. For many of them Paris was a return visit, while for the others it was a first visit. Whether new or a return, it is always delightful to see my home town (ha! Paris is my home town – can you believe that???) through the eyes of other people.

New Friends: For me it’s not very easy to meet new people so this adventure of mine is certainly pushing my boundaries. I have been extremely fortunate to become friends with some pretty wonderful people – Jacqui, whom I met through an ExPat website, moved to Paris from the San Diego area and is married to a Frenchman. She has expertly guided me, with the patience of a saint, through the many ‘differences’ between living in the USA and in France ….. things such as introducing me to Castorama (like Home Depot) to accompanying me to my appointment at the Tax Office. A huge plus, is that I get to babysit her cat when she is out of town – woohoo (I sure do miss having a cat or two or three or four).  She has since moved back to Encinitas, which makes me very sad, but I’m hoping that she will soon return to Paris!
Bridgette, Lucien and Dominique, whom I met through friends from the States, they live just outside of Auxerre (France) which is about a 2 ½ hour train ride – it is in north-central France. I’ve been to their place a couple of times and they make jaunts to Paris frequently – usually when Dominique is on school break – to do things that the big city offers …. But they are also big rugby fans so they’ll come up for a day to watch a game too. It’s always nice to see them.
Another friend is Elisbeta who lives in a suburb of Paris but is from Poland. I met her in our language class … what is interesting there is that she speaks Polish and French, I speak English but somehow we figured out how to communicate with each other. Over the Easter week-end I went to Krakow, Poland to visit her in her hometown and meet her family. It was a lovely time.
I met one of my neighbors – Nathalie – when she happened to be walking by my apartment and saw me struggling to talk to a delivery person …. She stopped and translated for us …. She speaks perfect English and went to college in Atlanta. She and her daughter, Victoria, live on the floor above me and they both have helped me when I have “where do I …..” questions.  I’ve been invited to their apartment a number of times and I love spending time with them. Nathalie told me she doesn’t have the patience to help someone learn French, but she introduced me to two of her friends – Monique and Virginie – who both want to improve their English, so I meet up with them and we trade off – one meeting in English, the next in French (I bet you can guess whom is progressing better in the pairings …. Ha!)
I met Christopher when I was at the police department in the 5th arrondissement, touring the Police Museum. He is a civil police officer (they have two types of police officers here – civil for civil law, and criminal for criminal law) who speaks English and has a gregarious personality …. He is so informed about the history of Paris and knows all these off-the-beaten-path, really cool, places to visit. He’s also helping me (more like forcing me) with my French as he often pretends he has no idea what I’m saying if I speak or write in English – he always says “I don’t understand. In French, Nicolle” …. So the poor guy then has to try to figure out what I’m trying to convey – thank god he laughs easily, because with me trying to speak French we often are reduced to laughing fits.
And Muxu I met at a street market in a neighborhood close to me. It’s one of my favorite street markets (Avenue de Saxe) and I like to take visitors there because the vendors arrange their products so beautifully – it’s artistic. He is a vendor who sells scarves – and he has had a lot of business from me, because I just love scarves. I am addicted and it is hard for me to visit him without purchasing another scarf that I “just have to have”. He too helps me with learning French, as I also help him with English.

Travels: I moved here to travel, yet this first year – as I suspected – I did little traveling. I have gone a couple of times to a small village, Arcy-sur-Cure, which is located just outside of Auxerre – in the Bourgogne (Burgundy) region of France. My friends Bridgette and Lucien own a “Bread and Breakfast” at which I stay. Arcy-sur-Cure is a small commune in north-central France and the caves in that commune hold the second oldest cave painting known. The population is about 521.
Bridgette is a trained Chef, so I always have great food there. My first time there I was introduced to food from the Bourgogne region – the one that stands out the most is SNAILS. Oh Lordy, I really had no desire to eat any but I didn’t want to offend them (this was during my first meeting them) and their son, Dominique, was downing them like they were chocolate candy – I didn’t want a 10 year old kid showing me up so I ate one – with the entire table watching me, as well as my friend Fred videotaping the event – thank goodness he’s never been able to figure out how to download the video from his cell phone so that way I don’t feel obligated in sharing it with you ….. and I only ate the ONE … it was basically tasteless (the snail itself) – I felt like I had a small piece of rubber in my mouth that I was chewing on, all the flavors came from the garlic-butter sauce that it is in …… I could maybe come to like them if it was for the texture of the snail itself – again, like chewing rubber – and just the thought that I am eating a snail …. But I survived. I went to their place again for Thanksgiving where we had a traditional American Thanksgiving meal …. Well, with 21 people invited …. About ¾ spoke English, so I had people to talk to – the meal was excellent (of course – do Chefs ever make bad meals?) …. And it was a quite enjoyable couple of days there.
As you blog readers are already aware – I went to Krakow, Poland – I spent 4 days there, it is a beautiful city and the people were very warm and welcoming (see blog dated April 21, 2016).
In October I went to Mont Saint-Michel, about a 4 hour bus ride each way, which is an island commune in the Normandy area about a half mile off the north-west coast of France. The population is 44 people.  Since the 8th century AD it has been the home of a monastery and has always been a strategic fortification for France. What is so unique about it is that when the tide recedes you can walk to the island (daytime) and then in the evening when the tide comes back in the island is completely surrounded by water. The tides can vary greatly, at roughly 14 metres (46 ft) between high and low water marks.
I was in Malaga, Spain (Andalusia), which lies on the “Costa del Sol” of the Mediterranean, at the end of October – thanks to the Miranda clan. I was there for a week and we went all kinds of places – we actually stayed about 30 minutes outside of Malaga, in Calahonda …. Because this area is the southern coast of Spain on the Mediterranean Sea (I stuck my feet into it) the weather was warm and beautiful. Actually, the entire area reminded me of San Diego and sometimes of the drive to Yuma …. Other cities in Spain that we visited were: Marbella (posh resort), Ronda (bullfighting and arched bridges), and Granada (La Alhambra), along with some smaller towns. I am always fascinated by architecture and the Andalusia area had beautiful buildings most with the Moorish influence from the occupation centuries ago. A nice surprise for all of us was that Gibraltar (as in – the rock of) was about an hour away – so of course we went there too. It is a British overseas territory located near the southwestern tip of Europe near the Iberian Peninsula. At the top of the rock there is a nature reserve where the Barbary Macaque (rock apes) live – they look like monkeys to me!
The last place, outside of Paris, I visited was Chartres (France) in December. It is about 60 miles southwest of Paris and is known for its cathedral, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres, which is considered one of the finest and best preserved Gothic cathedrals in France and in Europe. The stain glass windows in the cathedral are unique in that it is not known how the famous and unique blue, bleu de Chartres, of the glass was created, and it has been impossible to replicate it. It’s a small village with about 39,000 people.

Paris Sites: I’m often asked “What do you do?” ….. It’s kind of a hard question to answer, but my basic answer would be that I just live life everyday here ….. Some days I never leave my apartment – I have clean house, do laundry (including ironing the bed linens …. And, you’ll never believe this but I now iron my bath towels too ….. oh, just hit me in the head!) …. I grocery shop ….. Other days I just walk/wander around looking at things – there is so much to look at because there is nothing like Paris in the US ….. and other times I visit tourist known, and unknown, landmarks. So, to try to figure out what I’ve done this past year I’m listing the things I’ve “seen”:
The Eiffel Tower (I have to start with that one, as I’ve made more visits there than anywhere else – because it’s literally 2 blocks from my apartment and 7 minutes walking to its base ….. and I will admit, I’m still as in awe of it as the first time I saw it in 1998 …. It still takes my breath away each time I see it);
Parks: Champ de Mars; Square Saint-Lambert; Parc du Bois; Le Jardin d’Acclimatation; Jardin des Tuileries; Square René Viviani; Square du Vert-Galant; Parc Georges Brassens; Jardin Tino Rossi; Square Cambronne; Parc des Buttes-Chaumont; Jardin du Luxembourg
Suburbs of Paris: Boulogne-Billancourt; Saint Cloud; Saint-Ouen; La Défense; Sevrés; Saint-Denis; Vincennes; Bourget
Misc. Places: Seine River; Rue Crémieux; Canal Saint-Martin; Cirque Pinder; Garde Républicaine Quartier des Célestins
Parades: (may 8); Bastille Day (July 14)
Landmarks: Trocadéro; Invalides; Catacombes; Place de la Concord; Place de la République; Place de la Bastille; Notre Dame; Sainte Chapelle; Sacré-Cœur; Arc de Triomphe; Le Garnier (Opera house); Centre Georges Pompidou; Ecole Militaire; Archives Nationales; Abbey of Saint Germain des Près; Russian Ambassador House; Hôtel de Ville de Paris; Saint-Denis Gate; Saint-Martin Gate; Passage des Panoramas; National Library of France – François Mitterrand; Père-Lachaise Cemetery;  Moulin Rouge; Basilica of St. Denis; Château de Vincennes; Panthéon; Saint Etienne-du-Mort; Saint Sulpice; Saint-Eustache Parish
Districts: Montmartre; Le Marais; Montparnasse; Pigalle; Les Halles (and actually almost all districts in Paris)
Churches (attended): American Church of Paris; Calvary Chapel Paris; Hillsong
Music Scene/Sports: Le Grande Rex (to see the band my cousin is in); L’Olympia (Black Viola and 2Cellos); Euro2016 (International soccer)
Street Markets: Rue Cler; Grenelle (my neighborhood); Avenue de Saxe; Marche aux Puces
Shopping Centers: Beaugrenelle; Bizarre Hôtel de Ville; Les 4 Temps (La Défense); Galeries Lafayette; Le Bon Marche; Champs-Elysées;
Museums: Musée des Collections Historiques de la Préfecture de Police; Fondation Louis Vuitton; National Museum of Sevrés Céramiques; Musée de Picasso; Musée de l’Orangerie; Institute Pasteur; Conservatoire National des Arts & Métiers; Carnavalet Museum/Cernuschi Museum; Le Musée en Herbe; Musée Galliera de la Mode de la Ville de Paris; Musée de Chocolat; L’Aquarium de Paris; Le Bourget Musée Air et Espace; Musée Rodin; Grand Palais
Bridges: Pont Alexandre III; Pont d’Lena; Pont de Grenelle; Pont de Bir-Hakeim; Pont Neuf;(almost every bridge that crosses the Seine)
Places of the 13 November Terrorist Attacks: Le Petit Cambodge; Carillon Paris; Café Bonne Biere; Casa Nostra; Bataclan; La Belle Equipe; Le Comptoir Voltaire

Language: I went to 10 weeks of French lessons (very expensive – oh la la) and received my A1 certificate. I’m pretty proud of that, and I know I have to start somewhere, but in reality – I don’t speak French. I can read it fairly well, I can do okay writing it but the speaking part is still very painful for me and listening to it is worse – I just have a really hard time understanding the spoken word. I have a long way to go to get to the point where I can actually converse. But hey, I did, once, put three sentences together at the same time!!!!

I’m sure I’ve missed things that I’ve experienced in my first 16 months here … so that’s a picture of my life so far in Paris - I’ll close for now. My next blog will have pictures and will be about some quirky things in Paris !

Vivre la vie