noël en France

Christmas ât chez Nicolle



 

Christmas in France. I am sitting in my apartment listening to Christmas music (in English) as I love the music from this holiday (commercial) and birth celebration (religious).

Things aren’t so different here for celebrating Christmas than they are in the States. In stores Christmas decorations started showing up in mid-November (since Thanksgiving isn’t celebrated here I can’t use that as a reference) and the various Christmas markets were set up at the beginning of December.

In Paris there are two fairly large Christmas markets, one at La Défense where about 300 market stalls are set up in the open area, and the second along both sides of the Champs Elysées between the Grand Palais and the Place de la Concorde with about 160 market stalls. Throughout France, as well as most of Europe, Christmas markets are set up and visited. In 2013 I went to a number of them along the Rhine River between Amsterdam (the Netherlands) and Strasbourg (France). This year I went to both La Défense and the Champs Elysées – each twice.

I found where the Christmas market stalls along the Rhine River had more commercial items such as tree ornaments (lots of them) here in Paris there were more handmade items such as leather goods (purses, tote bags, portfolios), soap and lavender from Provence, cheese, chocolate truffles (OMG!!!!!!!), jewelry and a lot of scarves – in silk, cashmere and fur. There were other non-handmade items such as drones and hover boards. And food … food … and more food. I have found I am quite partial to “gaufre avec chocolat noir et de la crème Chantilly” (waffles with dark chocolate and whipped cream).

Some general French Christmas traditions, as reported in The Local:

“Presents” – Obviously the French don't actually move Christmas Day around, but they are more flexible when it comes to giving presents. In the north of the country, gifts are offered to children on December 6th, the feast of St Nicolas. Many families prefer to exchange presents on Christmas Eve and others, who must have impressive willpower, do the giving and receiving on January 6th, the Feast of the Kings.

“Writing Santa Claus” – Letters from French kids to Father Christmas don't just disappear into dustbins or drawers in France. Since 1962, France has had a law that stipulates any letter to Santa must be responded to in the form of a postcard. The law has no doubt helped boost the myth of Santa Claus among France's children, although it's doubtful the postmen appreciate all the extra work.

“Shoes” – Whereas youngsters in Anglo countries hang Christmas stockings by the fireplace for Santa, in France, children leave out their shoes, hoping Père Nöel will fill them to the brim with little presents, sweets, fruit, nuts and anything else that will fit. Children with smaller feet must feel a bit short-changed.

“Meal” – Otherwise known as Le Reveillon, the big Christmas meal in French families will often take place late on Christmas Eve or even in the early hours of Christmas morning after midnight mass. The menu for the feast will vary depending on the region but turkey stuffed with chestnuts is a regular on tables, as well as goose, oysters and foie gras.

“Cake of Kings” – The French mark the 12th day Christmas or the feast of Epiphany, by scoffing down one final pastry - known as the galette des rois or "cake of kings". Inside the cake is hidden a charm known as a fève. Whoever finds it in their portion is a king or queen and wins the right to wear the crown and choose their partner. This ritual may sound daft, but it's still taken very seriously.

A few French regional traditions at Christmas, as reported in The Local:

“Night of the Chimera” – Christmas is celebrated in the form of a fantastical spectacle in the city of Le Mans in Brittany. In the summertime and again during the holiday period, images of angels, demons, dragons, and other strange creatures are projected onto historic monuments in the medieval neighborhood called Plantagenet City.

“Floating carols singers” – In the Little Venice of Colmar in northeastern France, children decked out in red Santa hats sing Christmas carols on boats along the canal. They make four stops throughout the city center, performing four or five songs each time to the audience gathered on the quays.

“Christmas Fire” – In Corsica, the yule log takes the form of a bonfire lit in front of the village church after the midnight mass on December 24th.Traditionally, it’s up to the children of the village to gather the logs and branches, all of which must come from the fields and the yards of the village. Once the fire has died out the next day, the villagers each take some of the still-warm cinders to put in their own fireplaces.

“13 Desserts” – One dessert is not nearly enough if you’re celebrating Christmas in Provence. It’s tradition to have thirteen dessert options after the Christmas meal, to be shared by everyone, symbolizing the sharing of Christ. These desserts traditionally include pastries, candied fruit, dried fruit, and nougat.

“Les Santons” – Nativity scenes are popular throughout France, but the people of Provence put their own unique spin on them with small, clay figurines called santons, or "little saints". These figures, traditionally handmade at home as a family, can be vegetable sellers, bakers, men selling chestnuts, local dignitaries, or other personalities from daily village life. These nativity scenes are supposed to be representative of the ideal Provencal village. Marseille holds an annual Santon Fair at the end of November to kick off the holiday season. (My note: every Christmas market has a huge stall with these village figurines.)

“Designer Christmas Trees” – In Paris, an annual exhibition of reimagined Christmas trees created by big names in fashion, design, and architecture, takes place this year at the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées. The avant-garde trees have been designed in the past by artists such as Alexander McQueen, Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dior, Louis Vuitton, and more. After the show, the trees are auctioned off and all proceeds go to charity.

“Corrida de Noel” – The Parisian suburb of Issy-les-Moulineaux brings a sportive atmosphere to the holidays with their annual Santa Claus race. Called the "Corrida de Noel" after its Brazilian counterpart, the race is accompanied by orchestras and shows. In 2014, more than 18,000 runners signed up for the race, which is organized by age levels and open to everyone. Unfortunately, this year's event has been cancelled due to security reasons following the terrorist attacks in Paris.

“Coquilles de Noel” – Since the 16th century, people of the Nord Pas-de-Calais region have been testing their arteries with a type of brioche, or sweet bun, filled with butter, sugar, and raisins. Bakers in the north churn out these pastries, made in the shape of coquilles or shells, every December. According to France 3, a document from 1579 states that the sweets were thrown to the people from the top of the belfry tower.

So, that’s what Christmas is like in France. For me? Thanks to a recent shipment from the United States of Kraft Macaroni and Cheese, I’ll be having a feast on Christmas Day of Mac and Cheese with diced ham, wine (I AM in France) – a nice 2012 Château Prieuré-Les-Tours Graves, and chocolate cake with cream cheese frosting.

And I end this blog with the most important message about this holiday:

Merry Christmas! “For unto you is born this day in the city of David a Saviour, which is Christ the Lord” Luke 2:11.

Happy New Year! I ask your prayers via this message: “Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good will toward men” Luke 2:14.

joyeux noël et bonne année